Produce Guide - E

Eggplant

The glossy, deep-purple, elongated vegetable that most of us recognize as the eggplant seems strangely named. However, if you've been lucky enough to see the white variety, a plump, cream-coloured globe, you'll understand at once, and the spectrum of colours between this ivory goose-egg and the raven beauty is fantastic. Eggplant can be pale yellow, red, violet, and even striped, and it comes in any number of shapes and sizes: slender or full-figured, round or pear-shaped, and ranging from 2 to 10 inches (5-25 cm) in length.

A member of the nightshade family (and actually a berry rather than a fruit or vegetable), the eggplant is a native of India that made its way to Italy in the 15th century. It has a natural affinity with both Mediterranean and Far Eastern cooking, as its dense, spongy flesh can absorb intense, spicy flavours while retaining a mellow, buttery taste of its own. For the same reason, eggplant is notorious for being able to soak up several times its own weight in oil.

Eggplant is available year-round, although its long growing season means that local crops don't peak until late summer. When choosing an eggplant, regardless of the colour or shape, look for a smooth, shiny, taut skin with no pockmarks. The flesh should be firm and the eggplant heavy for its size. Try pressing it (gently, now!) with your finger. If the dent doesn't disappear, the eggplant is probably past its prime. The greenish-brown cap and stem should be clean, dry, and firmly attached.

Belgian Endive, Curly Endive, and Escarole

The Belgian endive (rhymes with on-leave) is actually the shoot of the common chicory root. This delicious vegetable was literally unearthed in the 19th century by a Belgian farmer. Having stored his fall harvest of chicory in the root cellar, in midwinter he discovered tender white leaves sprouting from them, ate them, and passed the word around. Thus was born the crunchy, delicate endive. It's still cultivated in forced beds, grown indoors to prevent the light from turning the leaves dark and excessively bitter. Belgium and Holland remain the number one producers, but this popular European vegetable has gained ascendancy in North America and is now available almost year-round.

Also called French endive or Witloof chicory, this tidy little vegetable has compact bundles of tightly wrapped, smooth white leaves ending in pale yellow tips. When choosing Belgian endive, look for firm, crisp, compact heads that give slightly when gently pressed. The leaves should be as white as possible with little or no colour. Wrap the bunches individually in paper towel and place in a plastic bag. They will keep well in the fridge for up to five days. Belgian endives are naturally clean creatures and require at most a quick wipe with a damp cloth.

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