Produce Guide - L

Leeks

Depending on where you live in the world, the leek is cherished as prince of the onions or disparaged as the poor man's asparagus. This probably says more about relative cost than flavour, which to my mind is very little like asparagus, although both are members of the lily family. However, leeks have a sweet, earthy, succulent flavour of their own, and I'm quite willing to throw my lot in with the first description: leeks deserve to wear a royal crown.

Leeks are available year-round, although they will be best value from late fall through early spring. They can be as small as your finger or as large as a bowling pin, but the average leek is about the size of a celery stalk. Very large leeks tend to be woody, but otherwise you should choose leeks by the length of their whites and the fresh, crisp greenness of their tops. Store them in the refrigerator, wrapped well, as their odour will be absorbed by any other nearby foods. They will keep for several days; store them any longer and the greens will begin to dry out.

Lemons

Most of us take lemons for granted. We routinely toss one into our grocery cart without much thought, except perhaps to notice the fluctuation in price from week to week. But think about life without the lemon. Leaving aside those recipes constructed around the zesty fruit - lemon meringue pie, lemon chicken, avgolemono - there are dozens of foods that would be left lifeless without a spike of lemon juice. From mayonnaise to marinades, lox to lobsters, G&Ts to Earl Grey tea - lemons are truly the main squeeze.

The California gold rush of 1848 was the impetus for the emergence of the North American lemon market. Just as British sailors had consumed limes to prevent scurvy at sea, miners and speculators soon realized the need for a portable source of ascorbic acid. And if you think lemon prices are high now, back in the mid-19th century, lemons were selling for a dollar apiece! California is now the main lemon producer for Canada, with Argentina stepping in to fill the void during the summer months.

The key ingredient in lemons is citric acid. The same acid that makes lemon juice an important component in industrial chemicals and medicines is what makes the fruit indispensable in the kitchen. The acid provides a necessary edge to fatty foods, such as salmon and oil-based dressings. It acts as a tenderizer in marinades, strong enough even to "cook" raw fish, as in ceviche. Just as important as the juice of a lemon is its oil. The firm, oily skin of a lemon has its own flavour. Lemon zest enhances rich meat and fish dishes, as well as all manner of cakes, cookies, and desserts. Alongside garlic and parsley, lemon zest makes up the triad of gremolata, the traditional accompaniment to Italian veal dishes such as osso bucco. And the lemon's high volume of pectin is what makes it a natural for curds and marmalades, as well as a setting agent for soft fruit jams such as strawberry and peach.

Lettuce

Back in my salad days (when I was still green behind the ears), I somehow talked my way into a job as a sous-chef in a posh hotel restaurant in the Channel Islands. One of my first assignments was preparing the salads. Easy peasy, I thought - a bit of Boston lettuce, a slice of tomato, and a dollop of salad cream. Lucky for me a generous galley slave saw my creation before my boss did, which probably saved me my job.

While back then even up-market London restaurants couldn't boast the variety of salad greens available today, I was amongst the many who thought that Boston lettuce was lettuce. Iceberg is the North American equivalent, and it remains one of the top sellers for a good reason. Crisp and juicy, with a sweet if somewhat bland flavour, iceberg lettuce is refreshing and enjoyable. It also stores and travels well, which is why it tends to be cheaper than other greens. Another familiar favourite, of course, is romaine. This lettuce has firm, elongated leaves and a somewhat nutty-sweet taste, and it commonly plays a starring role in Caesar salads.

Aside from iceberg and romaine lettuces, there are many other terrific salad greens. Bibb or Boston lettuce has a small head and tightly packed furled leaves surrounding a firm heart. Butterhead lettuce is also generally quite small but has floppy, butter-tender leaves and a pale heart. Then there are the looseleaf lettuces, which have no hearts but plenty of flavour. Their tender but meaty leaves can be green, red, or a combination, and broad, curly, or oak-leaf shaped.

Limes

Despite the fact that lemons are twice as rich in vitamin C as limes, 19th-century British sailors were given lime rations at sea to prevent scurvy. Medical experts were aware of the discrepancy, but the British navy was so often at odds with those lemon-producing Mediterranean countries that it was simply easier to import limes from the West Indies! Standard naval issue also included rum, which is, of course, why rum and lime is still a popular drink amongst "limeys."

While we may like to think of limes simply as small green lemons, the two citrus fruits are quite different. Limes are fussy creatures, requiring a frost-free, tropical climate to really thrive, as they do in Southeast Asia, southern India, West Africa, and Central America. And the flavour of limes is much more assertive than that of lemons, which is perhaps why lime features in Thai and Mexican cooking, taming the fieriness of chilies and the spicy freshness of cilantro. A little lime juice can do wonders for fruit just past its prime, as it balances any cloying sweetness. Limes are a true flavour enhancement. Try omitting the salt and pepper in lieu of a squeeze of lime juice - on fish and shellfish, grilled meats, and anything deep-fried.

Loquats

The loquat is an ancient fruit that originated in China, where it has been cultivated for over a millennium. Although it is now grown in Japan, India, Australia, the West Indies, South and Central America, as well as in the Mediterranean and southern US, this luscious little fruit has yet to become a commercial success. In part this is because the fruit tends to spoil quickly after picking, making it a high-risk export.

We do see some loquats from late April through May, primarily exported from Spain. Similar to an apricot, the loquat is a freestone soft fruit, although it tends to have either two or four seeds. The skin can vary from pale yellow to deep orange, and is thin and smooth to the touch. Inside, the flesh may be cream coloured, yellow, or orange, and a ripe loquat is juicy, tender, and slightly crisp, like a good pear. The flavour is one of Mother Nature's most successful blends, equal parts lychee, plum, cherry, and citrus. Sometimes as sweet as honey, other times having a bit of an edge, this is one fruit whose brief season you don't want to miss.

In southern Europe, you often see women picking over the loquats, which are generally the first soft fruit to arrive at the markets. They will usually pass by the smooth, perfect-looking fruit, choosing instead those with slight bruises or brown marks. Because they are so delicate, loquats have to be picked rock-hard to ship unblemished, and those in the know prefer the sweeter flavour of the mature fruit to the acidity of the young, smooth-skinned beauties. I suggest you follow this age-old wisdom. You would also do well to choose larger rather than small fruit, and if you have a choice, select those without stems, as these were likely ripe when picked.

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