Produce Guide - Q

Quinces

The quince is a bit of an ambiguous fruit. Picturing the spicy Middle Eastern dishes and Spanish sweetmeats that feature the quince, one might think of it as an exotic. However, it is also redolent of old-fashioned English orchards and pantry shelves, where jars of golden-pink quince jelly catch the light through the window. The quince has a heady, distinctly floral fragrance, which will perfume your kitchen for weeks, but biting into a raw quince will make your mouth pucker at its astringency. The quince is a cook's fruit; whether it is used in sweet or savoury recipes, it will lend dishes a distinct flavour and colour, as the cream-coloured flesh turns a rosy orange when cooked.

While the commercial market for quinces is small (we import most of them from California), the quince tree is making a comeback in North American gardens, due mainly to its ornamental appeal, as it features large white or dark pink flower clusters. Quinces make only a brief appearance in the fall, and the imported Californian fruit tend to be expensive. These tend to be the Iranian variety, and they are larger and less acid than the garden variety. However, you might find bargain-priced garden quinces at a country market or roadside stand or in a neighbour's garden. And the nice thing about quinces is that they go a long way. A single quince will transform an apple pie or a chicken stew. And a jar of Quince Jelly will go a long way to flavouring anything from pies to pork chops.